Rock Climbing
Edited by Timothy W. Kidd and Jennifer Hazelrigs
by Wilderness Education Association
Series: Outdoor Adventures
328 Pages
Rock climbing has been growing in popularity since the 1930s, and it's no wonder. This exciting activity lets you spend time in the outdoors while challenging yourself both physically and mentally and bonding with friends and family. With the increasing availability of a variety of climbing venues, including indoor climbing gyms, it's easier than ever to try rock climbing. Rock Climbing is the perfect book for anyone who wants to develop the skills.
Rock Climbing will help you explore one of the world's fastest-growing activities safely and successfully. The experts at the Wilderness Education Association ensure you learn proper technique, which is essential to a safe and enjoyable experience. They prepare you for your adventure with information on fitness and conditioning, equipment and gear selection, and nutrition. Safety skills are integrated throughout the book. You'll learn how you can use indoor climbing to practice basic skills before moving on to refine and build on those skills in the outdoors. You'll find easy-to-follow instruction of climbing fundamentals, including knots, belaying, building anchor systems, moving on rock, descending, and lead climbing, giving you all the skills and knowledge you need to be a capable beginning climber.
Throughout the book the authors share consumer, technique, and safety tips collected from their years of experience as both climbers and instructors. They also list Web sites to help you find climbing organizations, shop for equipment and gear, plan outdoor climbing trips, and more. The book also includes Success Check questions for each chapter that will help you test your climbing knowledge.
Use Rock Climbing to join the millions of other climbing enthusiasts around the world. This complete resource will teach you all the essential information for a successful rock climbing adventure!
Rock Climbing is part of the Outdoor Adventures series. This practical series provides you with the essential information so you can get ready and go. The Outdoor Adventures series prepares you with instruction in the basic techniques and skills so you can be on your way to an adventure in no time.
Part I: Preparing for a Rock Climbing Adventure
Chapter 1: Going Rock Climbing
Chapter 2: Climbing Into Fitness
Chapter 3: Indoor Climbing
Chapter 4: Know Before You Go
Chapter 5: Gearing Up for Rock Climbing
Part II: On the Rock
Chapter 6: Knots for Climbing
Chapter 7: Managing Friction: The Skill of Belaying
Chapter 8: Building Climbing Anchor Systems
Chapter 9: Strength and Grace: Techniques for Movement on Rock
Chapter 10: Descending
Chapter 11: Lead Rock Climbing
The Wilderness Education Association (WEA) is a not-for-profit organization that works to promote the professionalism of outdoor leadership through establishment of national standards, curriculum design, implementation, advocacy, and research-driven initiatives. The WEA educates people about the appropriate use of wildlands and protected areas by establishing strategic alliances with stakeholders of the outdoor industry, such as federal land management agencies, conservation groups, and all organizations that benefit from wildlands and believe that the existence of wildlands is important to quality of life.
The WEA has an affiliate network of more than 40 colleges, universities, and private and nonprofit groups that offer their courses. These affiliates are in the United States as well as Canada, Mexico, and Hong Kong. Through WEA's courses, students can learn a wide range of outdoor leadership skills.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
Skill level important factor when choosing climbing routes, locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location.
With a greater understanding of your abilities and the types of rock climbing, your next step in preparing for a climb is choosing the right spot. Selecting the right rock-climbing location and the appropriate routes is crucial to having a fun and safe experience. This section will examine criteria for selecting climbing routes and locations, along with a discussion of safe approaches to climbing sites (i.e., the nuts and bolts of actually getting to your chosen spot).
Criteria for Selecting Climbing Routes and Locations
Several factors should be considered when you are deciding where to go rock climbing. First, you must determine if your abilities and preferences will enable you to have an enjoyable experience at a specific location. While some climbing locations offer various types of climbing, other locations are limited to just one. Choose a location based on your preferred type of climbing and your own climbing ability. If you are primarily a top-rope climber, you should determine if the rock-climbing location has suitable anchors at the top and is short enough for one rope to be used when halved in length. Remember, most climbing ropes are 60 meters (197 ft) in length, though some may be shorter. If you prefer to lead climb, you must ensure that the rock is suited to the protection you use and your skill level. When heading out to a new location to climb, you should always confirm the type of anchors at the top of a climb. You can do this by visual inspection, by asking experienced or knowledgeable climbers in the area, or by consulting a guidebook that covers that particular crag.
Critical Questions to Ask When Selecting a Location
- Will your belayer have to follow you up the climb?
- Can you walk to the base of the climb from the top?
- Will it be easier and safer to rappel instead of walk from the top to the base of the climb?
- Will you need two ropes to safely descend?
- Are there anchors at the top of the climbs? If so, what kind? Does this location allow the use of trees as anchors? How will you protect the tree from being harmed by the rope?
- Will you be able to lower off a climb at any given point without running out of rope?
Being able to answer these questions before you go climbing is essential to your safety. Many of these questions will be answered in guidebooks written for your selected climbing area. A guidebook will also specify which style of climbing is available in a given area. Guidebooks are a vital tool in determining what type of rock and what type of climbing are present at various locations. Climbing guidebooks can be purchased at local outdoor retailers and online retailers (see the list of Web resources at the end of this chapter). Figure 4.1 identifies symbols often used in guidebooks to describe the important features of particular rock-climbing routes.
Another factor in determining where to climb relates back to your assessment of your abilities (see Skills Checklist below). Say you feel confident lead climbing using traditional protection on 5.7 cracks at your local crag. Is the new location you are considering slabby rock with 40-foot (12.2 m) run-outs (sections of rock that are unprotectable and can result in very long falls)? At a new location, you should start out by climbing routes that are well below your ability level. This enables you to (a) build your confidence on the new type of rock, (b) determine the quality and frequency of protection and anchors, and (c) give yourself the opportunity to downclimb anything you feel uncomfortable on. Climbing below your ability level in a new location will also let you determine if the ratings coincide with the ratings on previous climbs. Rating a climb is a subjective judgment made by the first ascentionist; therefore, you can expect a 5.9 to mean different things at different locations. Guidebooks may note that a climbing area is easier or more difficult than the recorded ratings, but you should let your experience determine what grades you are able to climb at specific locations.
When selecting a location for rock climbing, you should also take into account the anticipated number of people in your group. Climbing with a party of more than six people can have a negative impact on the generally positive vibe that exists at most climbing areas. Also, if you are climbing with an organization, your behavior with a group may affect your organization's reputation and future access to rock-climbing areas. When climbing in a large group, think about choosing a location that provides plenty of climbs for your party to spread out on. This will help ensure that your group doesn't inhibit the activities of other climbers. Climbing in a large group will be discussed in more detail later in this chapter (see Climbing Etiquette on page 92).
In summary, before you select a location, you should do the following:
- Define your style (i.e., top-rope climbing, sport climbing, or traditional climbing).
- Realistically assess your abilities.
- Locate an appropriate climbing area-that is, one that will accommodate your style and ability-based on information gathered from guidebooks or a knowledgeable salesperson from the local climbing shop.
Skills Checklist: Every Skill Is Important
The following is a list of skills or areas of knowledge you should be comfortable and proficient with before you go climbing. Some of these skills will be covered in this chapter, and the others will be addressed in other chapters.
- Climbing terminology
- Climbing rating system
- Route ratings and other guidebook symbols
- Site appropriateness
- Industry standards and ratings for all climbing equipment
- How to plan a rock-climbing trip
- Purchase, care, and handling of a rope
- How to belay
- How to properly wear and secure a harness
- Functions of the harness
- Knots used for rock climbing
- Climbing commands
- Climbing hardware and its uses
- How to build anchors appropriate for the terrain where you will be climbing
- Rappelling
- Ascending
- How to plan for and handle an emergency or self-rescue
- Rock-climbing etiquette and environmental responsibility (i.e., Leave No Trace principles)
Save
Learn more about Rock Climbing.
WEA offers tips for proper climbing technique
Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves.
Prolific American climber Chuck Pratt states it best: "Technique is our protection." Fluid and confident movement and good technique are at the foundation of rock climbing. Although rope work, hardware, and anchor systems all prove critical in our ability to climb and explore, the deciding factor ultimately boils down to whether or not we have the skill and strength to execute the moves. Strength may sometimes substitute for lack of skill and vice versa; however, climbers should strive for a healthy combination of strength and skill in order to work toward ever-improving performance. This chapter provides basic information on proper technique for climbing on varying terrain, as well as tips and ideas that will help you in your overall progression.
General Tips and Techniques
Though specific types of climbing often call for certain techniques, several basic principles should be applied to any terrain you climb. How do you climb a ladder? This question might seem silly, but the answer provides the first step toward gaining proper technique for rock climbing. Obviously, to get up the ladder, you hold the rungs with your hands, move your feet up a rung, and stand up. Your upward progress is primarily gained through your legs.
This bit of information is extremely important. The more you use your legs, the more energy you conserve in your arms. When first getting out on the rock, most people tend to concentrate on the wrong appendages. It is very easy to depend too much on your upper body, especially your hands. Although your hands are important for maintaining balance, you will find that proper footwork will increase your confidence and performance quickly, making climbing more enjoyable.
Even before touching the rock, you should have a plan put into place. This plan, however rough, might entail visualizing your intended route, evaluating potential troublesome sections, and committing to memory good rest stances and possible hazards that exist. Once en route, you need to be constantly aware of your surroundings. People often get tunnel vision when climbing. By constantly reminding yourself to look around, you will undoubtedly find better solutions that will save you both time and strength. Look ahead for potential sequences, and look below to find good footholds.
Balance is the key to efficient and safe climbing. Observing a talented climber move gracefully and effortlessly over difficult terrain is often both a humbling and inspiring experience. It is particularly humbling if you just spent an hour working yourself up the same route, and it is inspiring because it shows you what is possible. Though obviously strong from many days of climbing, talented climbers appear as if they exert little energy. Why is that? The easy answer is that they are good. The more involved answer is that they have the confidence within themselves and the knowledge of how to use and position their body in ways that allow for smooth, efficient movement. The first step in gaining confidence in your movements is learning how to maintain control and balance. Balance is directly influenced by the weight distribution of the climber's body.
Keeping your weight centered over your feet is the first step in maintaining balance. The second step requires you to keep control while in motion. Big dynamic moves are always exciting, but in reality, the majority of the movements are made statically. This is done by looking ahead and deciding what particular movements might do to your body positioning and how they will affect your balance. If you determine that the move will throw you off balance, you then need to determine what can be done to compensate and keep you under control.
While climbing, if you never feel stable and balanced, you are burning the valuable resources needed to get you to the top. The moment your balance becomes off center, you must compensate by using additional strength in order to keep yourself on the rock and off the rope. This extra effort may tire you out and cause you to fall.
Flagging
Flagging is a technique used by climbers to maintain balance. By extending a foot for counterbalance, a climber may be able to maintain positive pressure on a sideways hold that is off to the side.
Flagging can help avert a fall. When you release one point of contact, if your body opens up (i.e., "barn doors"), your weight will not be properly lined up and distributed. Work on repositioning yourself in order to prevent this imbalance.
The Match
In climbing, the term match essentially means to swap or change. Whenever you change your hands or feet on a particular hold, you are matching. Matching hands, feet, or hands and feet are all very common while climbing. The most obvious time a climber matches is during a traverse, which involves moving horizontally. While moving horizontally, you are using the same holds for both your right and left sides (both hands and feet). However, the match is a common practice when moving up as well. While making upward progress, the hand-to-foot match occurs when using a low hold with your hand and then high-stepping and making the switch with your foot.
When matching, you need to think ahead and then check to see exactly how much room there is to work with.
When matching feet, the climber will often have to hop off one foot while planting the other in its place. Other times, a climber may need to place one foot on top of the other. Once one foot is on top of the other, the lower foot slides out, allowing the upper foot to replace it seamlessly.
Static Versus Dynamic
The majority of moves performed while climbing lie within reach of one another. Though possibly requiring a stretch, holds can typically be reached statically from a fixed stance or position. Occasionally, however, a climber is faced with the challenge of obtaining a feature that lies out of reach but is needed to make progress. The one option in this situation is to perform a dynamic move-a move that requires a jump or lunge. Typically more committing than static moves, dynamic moves range from short lunges to gain as little as an extra inch to all-out throws for multiple feet. The term dyno is used to describe dynamic moves that require all points of contact with the stone to be lost because of the distance between holds.
The combination of balance, situational awareness of the rock around you, and an awareness of your body's position on the rock will help you execute the specific moves outlined in more detail in the following sections.
Learn more about Rock Climbing.