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Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair
224 Pages, 8.5
Keep your bike on the road for the long haul! Whether you're training, competing, or simply riding for fun, a properly tuned bike is essential to performance, efficiency, and safety. That's where Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair comes in.
Author Daimeon Shanks takes a straightforward “you can do it" approach to maintaining and repairing your bike so it's ready to go when you are.
Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair provides simple step-by-step instructions, accompanied by up-close photos, illustrations, and advice, for more than 100 repairs. You'll learn these skills and more:
• Adjust derailleurs and troubleshoot shifting problems.
• True your wheels and tweak your hubs for a silky-smooth ride.
• Install caliper, cantilever, or V-brakes.
• Repair a broken chain on the roadside.
• Fix flats in no time flat.
• Maintain pedals and cleats for efficiency and comfort.
• Install or adjust a headset.
• Install handlebars, including aero bars and flat bars.
• Adjust your saddle for a perfect fit.
• Determine if a triple crankset is right for you.
So spend more time in the saddle and less time and money in costly repair shops. Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair is the one guide no cyclist should be without!
Chapter 1 The Modern Road Bike
Chapter 2 Basic Maintenance
Chapter 3 Frame and Fork
Chapter 4 Handlebars and Stem
Chapter 5 Saddles and Seatposts
Chapter 6 Wheels
Chapter 7 Tires
Chapter 8 Brakes
Chapter 9 Cranks and Chainrings
Chapter 10 Shifters and Derailleurs
Chapter 11 Chains and Cogsets
Chapter 12 Pedals and Cleats
Chapter 13 Customizing Your Fit
Daimeon Shanks has two decades of experience in cycling and has worked as a professional mechanic in every discipline of the sport, including mountain, track, road, and cyclocross. His work experience includes stints with the Mavic Neutral Support Program, as the head track mechanic for the U.S. national team, and as the resident mechanic at the U.S. Olympic Training Center in Colorado Springs. He also spent five years as a mechanic with the Garmin Transitions ProTour cycling team, working events such as the Grand Tours of Europe, the pinnacle of road cycling's hierarchy.
Shanks graduated from the University of Oregon, where he raced for the university team and later became director and president of the cycling program. He is currently the co-owner of The Service Course, a high-end bike repair shop in Boulder, Colorado.
"In Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair, Daimeon Shanks takes a straightforward approach to repair and creates the go-to resource for cyclists."
Tom Danielson-- Professional cyclist with team Garmin-Cervelo
“Daimeon Shanks belongs to an elite stratum of bicycle mechanics. Seasoned by the triage nature of top professional cycling on the road, trail, and track, Shanks' experience and ability to eloquently advise show through in Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair.”
Nicholas Legan-- World and Olympic Champion Mechanic, Tech Editor for Velo/VeloNews
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
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5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
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Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
| |
| |
|
4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
|
Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
| |
| |
|
4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
|
|
5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
-
Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
-
Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
-
The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast.
Adjusting an Integrated Seat Mast
Some new carbon road frames do away with the traditional seatpost setup altogether and instead have an integrated seat mast. Basically, the seatpost becomes an integrated part of the frame, and the saddle mounts directly to the masthead. The benefits of an integrated seat mast are lower weight, increased stiffness, the possibility of aerodynamically shaped seat masts, and a striking aesthetic appeal. The downsides are difficult to travel with (fitting the frame and seat mast in a bike bag or box), loss of resale value if seat mast is cut, and increased cost.
When working with a bike with an integrated seat mast, it's important not to clamp the seat mast in a work stand unless an adaptor is provided by the frame's manufacturer. You must use a euro style repair stand that holds the bike by the fork dropouts and the bottom bracket shell. -> |
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Of the two styles, the mast cap is more common. Ridley, Trek, Scott, and most of the other major brands that offer frames with integrated seat masts all use a mast cap. The cap will have one or two pinch bolts and may or may not have elastomers (rubber bumpers) or shims that are inserted between the top of the mast and the clamp. As is true whenever you are clamping something to a frame, pay extra attention to the torque specifications provided with the frame. Frames that have an integrated seat mast must be cut down to achieve proper saddle height. It's extremely important to be sure of your measurements before you cut the seat mast because, once it is cut, more mast cannot be added. Most mast caps have a centimeter or two in adjustment built in, but this is not much of a safety net. Some frames are designed in such a way that if you did mess up your measurements or wanted to resell your frame, you can cut the seat mast off near the junction of the seat tube and top tube and install a standard seatpost clamp. Then you can simply install and use a standard seatpost. Before you take a hacksaw to your new frame, pull out your old bike and double-check that your saddle is in the correct position and that you're happy with those measurements. |
1) Measure Saddle Height On your existing bike, measure your saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket to the top of your saddle. Measure along the line of the seat tube. If you're using different size cranks than what is currently on your bike, measure from the pedal axle, with the crank arm in the down position and aligned with the seat tube. |
2) Install Saddle and Clamp
Install the saddle and clamp on your new frame, leaving the seat mast uncut. Fully bottom out the clamp on the mast.
3) Measure New Saddle Height Using the same method described in step 1, measure the saddle height of your new frame with the seat mast uncut. Subtract the measurement from your old bike from your new. This is the amount of seat mast that is to be cut off. |
4) Mark Seat Mast Carefully measure from the top of the seat mast the amount to be cut, and mark with a pen or notch with a flat-blade screwdriver or other utensil. |
5) Install Cutting Guide If your frame came with a cutting guide, install on the seat mast where it is marked. Park makes an excellent seat mast cutting guide that will work for almost all frames if one isn't provided. If the seat mast is round, you can use a standard steerer tube cutting guide. |
6) Cut the Seat Mast
Use a hacksaw equipped with either a fine-toothed blade (24 teeth or more) or a carbon-specific blade. Lightly smooth the cut with a fine file or sandpaper.
7) Install Seat Clamp and Saddle Install the seat clamp, bottomingout on the seat mast. Some frames require the use of elastomers between the seat mast and seat clamp. Measure the saddle height and adjust if necessary. If the saddle height is a little too low, you may be able to raise the clamp a small amount either with shims or by simply raising the clamp (within the minimum insertion mark). If the saddle is too high, you must cut the seat mast again. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables.
Installing and Adjusting Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
In 2009, Shimano introduced the first all electronic shifting system dubbed Di2 (Digital Integrated Intelligence). Since its introduction, Di2 has become the benchmark for shifting performance, offering riders unmatched precision, speed, and ease of shifting. A small, 100-gram battery powers the two servomotors housed in the front and rear derailleurs. The shifter buttons are placed on the brake levers in the same position as the standard mechanical shifters so that learning the new shifting is pretty painless.
Several different wiring kits are available for either external or internal routing of the cables. If you're running external, there are three sizes of wiring kits for different size bikes. Setup and adjustments are all handled in a small control box mounted to the brake cable housing at the front of the bike so it can easily be adjusted while riding.
Installing Shimano Di2 Shifting Systems
Shimano Di2 shifters and derailleurs look very similar to their mechanical counterparts but function quite differently. Some of the installation and adjustments are similar to the mechanical system's, but most of it is specialized, so read the following instructions carefully before installing a Di2.
1) Install Shifters The shifters are mounted in the same manner as older Shimano Dura-Ace shifters. A 5-millimeter Allen wrench is slid under the outside of the lever body, under the hood to access the clamp bolt. Loosen the clamp bolt until the clamp easily slides onto the handlebars. When you have the lever in your preferred position, tighten the clamp bolt clockwise until the lever no longer moves easily by hand. |
2) Install Rear Derailleur
Exactly the same as a mechanical rear derailleur, the Di2 rear derailleur mounts directly to the derailleur hanger using a 5-millimeter Allen wrench. The derailleur has a small screw (called the B-tension screw) immediately behind the attachment bolt, which rests against a lip at the bottom of the derailleur hanger. Pull the derailleur backward as you install it so that the B-tension screw clears the lip of the hanger. When the screw is over the lip, release the derailleur so the B-tension screw rests against the lip as you finish tightening the derailleur bolt.
3) Install Front Derailleur The front derailleur mounts to the frame in the same manner as a mechanical front derailleur but also uses a small post bolt that butts against the seat tube to provide extra stability because the servomotor is quite strong. | |
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4) Install Rear Wiring Kit Each frame that incorporates internal routing will have very specific ways of mounting the wiring kits, so for this book we'll cover only the external mounting kits. Choose the correct size for your bike. Shimano recommends small kits for bikes 52 centimeters or less, medium kits for bikes between 52 and 56 centimeters, and long kits for bikes larger than 56 centimeters.
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5) Install Front Wiring Kit
The front wiring kit includes the control box, the attachment point for the rear wiring kit, and two wires for each shifter. The shifter wires are labeled red and white—red for the right shifter, white for the left.
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Open the flap on the inside of the shifter body, and, using the cylindrical end of the Shimano Di2 tool, push the wire ends into the shifter body. There are two open slots in the lever body. It does not matter which one you use. The second slot is for accessory shifters (bar-end or remote shift levers).
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Mount the control box to the front brake cable with small zip ties, which are included with the front wiring kit. Take up the slack in the shifter wire by folding the wire over itself under the bar and taping it down. Keep it close to the brake housing so that when the bar is wrapped, you won't be able to feel it.
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The junction for the rear wiring has a clip that attaches to the brake housing, either on the front housing (if running the wire on the drive side) or on the rear housing (if running the wire on the nondrive side). Connect the front wiring kit to the rear.
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.
How to install a threadless headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset.
Threadless Headset
In the threadless-style headset, the steerer tube is smooth and passes through the entire headset. A threadless-style stem is clamped directly to the steerer tube, and adjustments are made using an expanding bolt and top cap that loads the headset bearings. Also, instead of using a threaded bearing cap to achieve bearing load, the threadless headset uses a top cap that pushes the stem (and stem spacers) against the top race of the headset to load the bearings.
Much of the installation and adjustment procedures used on a threadless headset are exactly the same as with a threaded system. That's because the basic principle of top-loaded bearings is the same between the two; they just go about it in different ways.
Threadless Headset Installation
Threadless headsets are much more common on road bicycles these days and may or may not have bearing cups. Installing headset bearing cups requires the use of a special headset press tool. If you don't have the correct tool, do not attempt to install cups using any other method.
1) Install Bearing Cups Before you begin, note that many modern bicycles do away with external bearing cups altogether and use an integrated cup system. If your bicycle has this style, simply apply grease to the integrated cups and set the bearings into the frame by hand. Integrated threadless headset bearings come in two popular sizes (the International Standard and the Campagnolo Standard) and are differentiated by having different bearing contact angles. Refer to your bicycle's instructions to make sure that you have the correct bearings. If you do not have integrated bearing cups, follow these steps: • Lightly grease the head tube of the frame where the headset cups will contact. If you have a titanium frame, use an antiseize compound. • Slide the top cup onto the upper race of the headset press, and insert the headset press through the top of the head tube. • Slide the bottom cup onto the lower portion of the headset press, and install the lower race of the headset press. Hold the bottom of the headset press with a wrench so that the tool does not spin as you press in the headset cups. As you install the cups, make sure that the cups are straight and are not binding in the head tube. • Stop when the cups make flush contact with the head tube. Do not overtighten because the cups can be damaged if they are pressed after they are firmly seated in the head tube. |
2) Install Fork Crown Race The fork crown race sits on the crown of the fork and is the contact point for the lower bearing assembly. Use a crown race setter and the correct attachment for your specific size and type of crown race. • Slide the crown race down the steerer tube until it reaches the flange at the bottom. • Slide the crown race setter over the crown race and strike the crown race in an up-and-down motion until the race is flush with the crown of the fork. Check that there are no gaps between the crown and crown race. 3) Install Lower Bearing Apply a thin layer of grease on the fork crown race and slide the lower bearing onto the race. Liberally apply grease onto the lower bearing cup and slide the fork into the head tube from the bottom until the lower bearing is seated into the lower cup. 4) Install Upper Bearing Liberally apply grease to the upper cup and install the upper bearing into the upper cup. Apply a thin layer of grease on top of the upper bearing. 5) Install Centering Cone and Top Cover Threadless headsets use a centering cone (sometimes called a compression ring) that is pressed into the bearing by the top cover to achieve bearing load. |
6) Install Stem and Spacers Using headset spacers, determine the correct stem height. If the steerer tube needs to be shortened, see the instructions on cutting on page 32. |
7) Insert Expansion Plug or Star Nut The top cap presses the stem and spacers down on the top cover to achieve bearing load. To do this, the top cap is anchored to the fork using either a star nut (for use with steel, aluminum, or titanium steerer tubes) or an expansion plug (for use with carbon steerer tubes) and a long bolt that is set in the top cap. To install a star nut, you must use a special star nut setter. This tool consists of two sleeves: the inner sleeve has a threaded post on which the star nut is threaded, and the outer sleeve slides over the steerer tube. The inner sleeve is hit with a hammer to drive in the star nut, and the outer sleeve keeps the inner sleeve straight and has a lip to stop the star nut from being inserted too far. If you are using an expansion plug, install the plug so that the top cap has room to be adjusted both in and out. The expansion plug will have an Allen bolt that can be tightened to expand the plug in the steerer tube and hold it in place. |
Read more from Essential Bicycle Maintenance & Repair by Daimeon Shanks.