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Archery is one of the hottest sports out there, and there's no better introduction to the sport than Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Inside are all of the essentials you need to succeed and get on target. From stringing your bow to learning basic shooting technique, instructions and accompanying photographs will guide you through every step of the shot.
You'll also find insider tips for choosing, adjusting, and maintaining archery equipment as well as recommendations for using accessories to improve your accuracy. You'll discover how to correct errors and fine-tune your approach. And, if you want to compete, you'll appreciate our how-tos for trying archery tournaments.
Archery Fundamentals is a better, faster, and safer way to learn the basics. With this book, you'll have as much fun learning the art of shooting as you'll have hitting your target!
Chapter 1 Bows
Chapter 2 Arrows
Chapter 3 Accessories
Chapter 4 Shooting Recurve
Chapter 5 Shooting Compound
Chapter 6 Alignment, Anchor Points, and Releases
Chapter 7 Taking Aim
Chapter 8 Maximizing Performance
Chapter 9 Scoring
Chapter 10 Equipment Maintenance and Repair
Chapter 11 Competition
Chapter 12 Traditional Archery
Teresa Johnson received USA Archery’s 2010 Developmental Coach of the Year Award and has coached recreational and competitive youth and adult archers since 2007. She is a level 4 National Training System (NTS)-certified archery coach and level 3 NTS coach trainer. Johnson has shot compound and recurve bows for over 10 years.
Johnson specializes in public relations. Combining her love of archery with her passion for communications in her daily work, she served as the press attaché for the U.S. archery team at the London 2012 Olympic Games. She also was project coordinator for Archery (Human Kinetics, 2013), edited by USA Archery.
Johnson resides in Connecticut with her husband, Butch, a five-time Olympian and Olympic gold medalist in archery.
“A comprehensive overview, Archery Fundamentals is perfect for those new to the sport.”
Denise Parker-- Three-time Olympian (1988, 1992, 2000) and Bronze Medalist (1988)
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Traditional, Target, Field, and 3D Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D. Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories.
Equipment Setups
In archery each setup is unique and suited to a particular type of competition. Four commonly used setups are traditional, target, field, and 3D.
Traditional archers use the bare minimum of equipment (figure 3.6). The traditional archer prefers to shoot barebow because it lacks any sights or accessories. This type of archer shoots the arrow right off the shelf of the bow with the fingers. Some traditional archers shoot with a regular finger tab like other archers; others wear a special glove that protects the three drawing fingers but leaves the inside of the hand open. This glove is often used by traditional archers who shoot using all-wood bows and all-wood arrows. An arm guard is also a necessity for the traditional archer. The bow may be a simple straight longbow or a wooden recurve. The quiver is slung over the back or hung at the side, and the handmade arrows might sport real feathers in a variety of colors. Traditional archers may use wood, aluminum, or carbon arrows, which are sometimes crested to give a more authentic look and feel to the arrow shaft.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0542_ebook_Main.jpg
Traditional (barebow) archery setup using a longbow.
Do you have Olympic or Paralympic dreams? Archers focused on Olympic-style target archery use all the latest accessories on highly engineered recurve bows (figure 3.7). Their recurve bows are manufactured with a variety of composites and are finely tuned for accuracy. They spend many hours adjusting and tuning their bows and arrows for perfect fit and function. The bows are steadied by stabilizers and side rod setups, and high-performance arrow rests and precision sights are go-to accessories. The side quiver contains a finger tab, a finger sling, an arm guard (when it isn't being worn), a towel, an arrow puller (a split rubber tube used for getting a better grip on an arrow being pulled from the target), arrow lubricant, and other accessories introduced by fellow archers and by attending tournaments. Compound archers - who shoot target archery - sport many similar equipment options, but these are adapted to the compound bow. These archers wear form-fitting clothing on their upper bodies as well as chest protectors (for recurve archers), and their hair is up and out of their eyes. They may sport sunglasses or hats or visors to cut down on glare. They might also have a spotting scope on a stand so they can see their arrows on distant targets better and adjust their sights accordingly. A pen and pencil, along with a small notepad, are a must for every competitive archer.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0177_ebook_Main.jpg
Olympic-style archery setup using a recurve bow.
Compound archers who enjoy 3D, field, or target archery set up a fast compound bow with an arrow rest, sight, stabilizer, and often a side rod (figure 3.8). This type of bow setup might also include specially designed shock absorbers either built into the bow or fastened to the limbs. The side quiver also contains a wrench set to make any last-minute repairs or adjustments. Because this archer moves from shooting station to shooting station, a spotting scope is generally not necessary - but binoculars are a must. The bow has an adjustable arrow rest and a precision sight, and that sight has a magnified lens, or scope, along with a level for making sure the bow is straight when shooting. In addition to the side quiver, this archer wears a pouch on the belt to hold a release aid; in the quiver are a towel, arrow puller, arrow lubricant, and of course a small notepad, as well as a pen and pencil.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_0748P_0376_ebook_Main.jpg
Field or 3D archery setup using a compound bow.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Improve your shooting recurve
Shooting a Recurve Bow You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow.
Shooting a Recurve Bow
You can actually practice the following shooting steps without using a bow. Raising your bow arm up and down while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed and pretending to draw your bow back until your forefinger reaches your smile while standing straight and tall--all of this helps create body-form memory. When you are learning to shoot your first arrows, you don't even need an actual target bullseye. Just shoot at a blank target mat or at stacked bales of hay. The target should be as close to you as possible without interfering with your form--as close as 5 to 10 yards (approximately 4.5 to 9 meters) to start. At this point, all you're doing is learning the correct form and shooting sequence.
An excellent beginner's shooting sequence, called Nine Steps to the 10-Ring, was created by the Coaches Development Committee of the National Archery Association and is discussed next. Follow this sequence, and you'll soon be shooting just like an Olympic archer. Have the sequence memorized before you actually shoot with a bow, or have a partner read it aloud to you as you proceed through the shot. In addition, always follow the standard range-whistle commands--two blasts signal you should go to the shooting line, one blast signals it's safe to shoot, and three blasts signal it's time to retrieve your arrows.
Recurve Bow: Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
Stances, grips, anchors, and releases are discussed in greater detail in chapter 5. For the purposes of understanding this sequence, however, please read on:
Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence
- Stance
- Nock the arrow
- Set your grip
- Predraw your bow
- Draw your bow
- Anchor
- Aim
- Release
- Follow-through
1. Stance. Place one foot on each side of the shooting line. Place your feet shoulder-width apart; you should feel well balanced. Stand straight and tall, and keep your head up and your shoulders straight and relaxed.
2. Nock the arrow. Pull an arrow from your quiver holding it by its nock. Place the arrow on the arrow rest of your bow, and position the arrow so the index vane (the odd-colored one) faces you and is perpendicular to the bowstring. Fit the nock onto the string directly below your nock locator. You should hear the nock click into place on the string.
3. Set your grip. Keep your shoulders down and loose, and set your bow hand into position on the bow grip nice and relaxed. Only the meaty part of your palm and thumb should grip the bow. Your fingers should remain relaxed and loose. Place your first three fingers, protected by the finger tab, directly under the arrow. The bowstring should be in the first groove of your finger joints. If you're new to archery, it's best to start with three fingers under the arrow. This placement is simpler to learn, and it helps keep the arrow on the arrow rest by limiting the torque on the bowstring.
4. Predraw your bow. Raise the bow toward the target while keeping your shoulders down and relaxed. Put a slight tension on the bowstring by extending your bow arm toward the target and pulling back slightly with your drawing hand. Look at the target through your front sight (if you have one installed) or down the shaft of the arrow. If your bow arm seems to be sticking out and is in the way of the bowstring, rotate it down and out of the way. The elbow of your drawing arm should be at the same level as your nose.
5. Draw your bow. Slowly draw your bow back by rotating your drawing-arm shoulder around until your elbow is directly behind the arrow. Keep your drawing hand relaxed, your bow shoulder down, and your body erect. Make your drawing motion continuous all through the shot.
6. Anchor. Draw the string to the front of your face, and anchor with your forefinger on the corner of your smile. Continue to minutely draw back the bow by moving the back muscles of your drawing arm. Keep your drawing hand relaxed.
7. Aim. Focus your eyes and your concentration on the center of the target. Keep the string lined up with the center of the bow limbs and continue your gradual draw.
8. Release. Simply release any tension in your fingers, and allow the string to let loose while you continue to draw back smoothly. Continue to extend your bow arm toward the target as you concentrate on it.
9. Follow-through. Every great release has a great follow-through. Allow your relaxed drawing hand to continue back until it stops near your shoulder naturally. Your bow arm continues its extension toward the target. Maintain your follow-through until your arrow hits the target.
Pulling and carrying arrows. Although not generally considered to be part of the actual shooting sequence, pulling and carrying your arrows properly is equally important in finishing your shot. Approach your target from one side. Place your outspread hand onto the target face and around the arrow. Grasp the arrow with your other hand as close to the target as possible, and gently pull the arrow straight out of the target. Rotate the arrow carefully if it sticks.
Once you have removed the arrow, place it into your side quiver (or place the arrow on the ground if you have no side quiver), and continue pulling arrows out of the target and placing them either in your quiver or on the ground until you are finished. Walk back to the shooting line, and place the arrows into your ground quiver. Arrows should be carried using both hands. One hand holds the arrows upright covering their points, and the other hand holds the group of arrows firmly near the crest.
Adjusting Center Shot
When you reach step seven, the aiming step, of the Nine Steps to the 10-Ring Sequence, you may find you need to adjust your center shot alignment. During proper center shot alignment, the bowstring will appear to bisect the bow limbs, and the arrow's tip will appear to be slightly outside the bowstring alignment. The arrow is held in this slight outside alignment to account for the inside rolling action that takes place when a recurve's bowstring is released with the fingers.
A straight bow or recurve bow shot with the fingers tends to release an arrow with a slight sideways rolling motion. Many beginner recurve bows that have a stick-on plastic arrow rest have a slight angled leaf spring molded into the plastic arrow rest. The leaf spring helps center the arrow in position and provides some cushion on the side of the arrow as it's released. For more advanced contest bows where accuracy is more critical, an adjustable accessory called a plunger can be added that helps to center the arrow perfectly in this line of sight. The plunger screws into the side of the bow handle and then typically extends through a hole that is often molded into the arrow rest.
This is an excerpt from Archery Fundamentals.
Before you buy: Bow styles, parts of a bow, and draw length
Bows come in the following three basic styles: Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
Before You Buy
Bows come in the following three basic styles:
- Longbow: The longbow is usually made from a single stick of material. It is straight when unstrung and forms a simple backward curve when strung.
- Recurve bow: Similar to the style of bow shot in the Olympic Games, the recurve bow has elongated limbs that, when strung, curve backward near the riser and then curve forward (recurve) at the tips. This bow has a smoother draw and release than a longbow does.
- Compound bow: The compound bow is a shorter and more compact bow that was originally invented for hunting but is now immensely popular among competitive archers. It features a series of wheels, cams, cables, and strings. A cam is a special type of wheel that creates greater bow speed than a round wheel does.
Although bows differ in looks depending on what they're used for, they all have some basic traits in common. When strung, all bows are bent in some fashion. The center part of the bow that you hold with your bow hand is called the riser, or the handle.
A bowstring, which connects the limbs, is often made of a series of synthetic fibers that are protected by special reinforced thread at the ends and the center called servings. The center serving often has a small brass ring or wound thread on it called a nock locator. The nock locator is positioned onto the serving on a specific spot, below or between where the notched back part of the arrow (called the nock) snaps onto the string (figure 1.1).
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_488046_ebook_Main.jpg
Parts of a bow.
Commonly thought of as the bow used by Robin Hood and featured in countless Hollywood movies, the longbow is a simple, straight piece of carved wood with a string. Longbows have no additional components (e.g., sights, arrow rests). Originating in Europe, the longbow was made from a variety of local wood, including yew. When archery started to become popular in America, Osage orange became a popular wood for bow makers, who are also called bowyers. Currently, hickory, lemonwood, and bamboo are popular materials for longbow construction.
A recurve bow has elongated limbs above and below the riser that have a lengthy curve, and the string is connected at the very end of the limb, called the limb tip. A compound bow has a distinct riser and upper and lower limbs that are less curved than their recurve bow counterparts. On a compound bow, the string makes the connection to the bow at the wheels or cams. The cam is attached to the tip of one or both limbs.
Found on the riser is a cutout called a sight window. The lower part of the sight window, called the shelf, can act as the direct place on the bow on which the arrow rests while the bow is being drawn. This is frequently found on fiberglass bows and longbows. The sight window may also have holes drilled in it with metal inserts for a small arm - called a rest - that holds the arrow. Some arrow rests have self-adhesive pads so they can be stuck onto the side of the sight window. The sight window may also have drilled inserts that accept mounts for a wide variety of aiming aids called sights. Bow sights are usually made of metal or plastic, and they have an adjustable aperture (recurve bow) or magnified scope (compound bow) used for aiming.
Bows come in a variety of draw lengths and draw weights. Draw length is the distance you pull the bow back when you draw it fully and the string is at the correct location at the corner of your mouth or under your chin (called the anchor point). Draw length is measured from the front of the arrow rest on the bow to the front of the inside of the nock on the arrow. Draw length differs from person to person based on body type and shooting technique (figure 1.2). Draw weight is the amount of pull the bow exerts at your full draw length. Recurve bows and compound bows differ slightly in how draw length functions. On a recurve bow, because everyone has a slightly different draw length, the draw weight differs slightly. The farther back you pull a recurve bow, the more energy it stores in the limbs, and the heavier it draws. However, an industry standard states that the advertised draw weight of a bow, which is usually printed on the bottom bow limb, is meant for a 28-inch (71 cm) draw length.
http://www.humankinetics.com/AcuCustom/Sitename/DAM/131/E6168_Showing_Draw_Length_ebook_Main.jpg
Draw length.
On a compound bow, draw length is preset by a module on the cam that limits the length the bow can be drawn back, in order to have the draw stop at your anchor point. Some cams allow the draw length to be adjusted by changing or moving modules, while others require a complete cam change to change draw length. In either case, these adjustments can be made at your local archery shop. The cam allows you to pull the bow back to the proper draw length using the full draw weight of the bow; at the end of the draw, the cam rotates to lessen the holding weight of the bow (an action called let-off) - allowing you to hold the bow back at full draw at just a fraction of its original draw weight. Additionally, most compound bows have approximately a 10-pound (4.5 kg) draw weight range, although some bows have a greater range. The weight is easily adjusted at a pro shop.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don’t have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about.
Attending a Competition
The number one rule about arriving at a competition is to arrive early so you don't have to rush. Sign in with the tournament director, find out your lane assignment (where you will be shooting), and review any rules you might have questions about. This includes who to turn to if there is a scoring dispute (an event judge) and where to take your scores when you are finished shooting. At many tournaments, you have to have your equipment inspected by the event judge to ensure that it's legal for that event. Check your name and division in the shooting roster so that you can be in position to shoot at the time indicated, and review your target assignment and shooting order (A, B, C, D). Take your time putting your bow together to be sure you're doing it correctly. Say hi to your target mates, and then find a place to put your jacket and other gear. Once that's done, and your equipment has been inspected, take a few minutes to stretch out and get your muscles warmed up. At your first event, pay attention so that you fully absorb what is going on around you. Once you have become experienced with tournaments, consider bringing music, a book, or some other item that will help you stay relaxed between ends.
As with any sport, informal etiquette is nearly as important as the formal event rules. Many events are run by volunteers who have devoted a considerable amount of time and effort to help participating archers have a good time. You may be asked to help move targets, help score, or perform any number of small tasks. Be prepared to help out as needed - it makes the event run more smoothly and helps you become part of the archery community more quickly. Another point of etiquette is to remain quiet while on the shooting line, and to be respectful of others' personal and competitive space. You will have a lane designated to you - a set area in which to shoot. When in your lane, hold your bow upright as opposed to sideways, so that it isn't in anyone else's space, and be sure your body, bow, and scope are in your own lane. Also, if the archer next to you is at full draw and you finish first, it is considered polite to remain on the line until the archer is no longer at full draw.
A tournament may be the first time your performance is compared with that of other archers. Although it's tempting to focus on this comparison, it's vital that in your own mind you are competing only with yourself. At first, your only goal should be to gain experience and confidence. As you become a better archer, you may also set a score-based goal for the event, but you should never think about your score while you are competing, only after you're done. Be polite and welcoming to your fellow competitors, and try never to compare your scores to theirs. Many events have a running scoreboard, or leader board, on display. Try not to focus on it; keep your mind on your technique and your mental game instead. Many other archers will be doing the same, so in general, scores and results are not a great topic of conversation at tournaments.
If you attend a tournament with your coach, odds are that the coach will not be able to speak to you during the actual shooting. You'll be on your own for that. Coaches in large tournaments, however, are often seen behind the waiting line observing their archers. Following each scoring end, you might be permitted to speak with your coach if you walk to where he or she is. Keep in mind that the coach's job during the tournament is to reinforce your mental game and your shot execution - it is not to change your style or your goals. Your coach is there to encourage and support you, while helping you to ask the best of yourself. Resist the temptation to ask what you are doing wrong, but instead focus on what you're doing right, and repeat with your coach the same positive reinforcement routine that you used during practice.
Learn more about Archery Fundamentals, Second Edition.
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