See your average rise and the pins fall with the second edition of Bowling: Steps to Success.
Inside you’ll find progressive, detailed instruction on all aspects of the game. You’ll learn these essential skills and strategies:
• Grip
• Stance
• Footwork
• Arm swing
• Approach
• Timing
• Release
You’ll also learn the best strategies for targeting and picking up spares as well as correcting common errors and adjusting to various lane conditions.
Best of all, this updated second edition features new full-color photos and diagrams, dozens of drills, self-scoring exercises for charting progress, and professional advice for improving your performance.
Part of Human Kinetics’ popular Steps to Success series—with more than 2.5 million copies sold worldwide—Bowling: Steps to Success will have you landing solid strikes and converting even the most stubborn spares in no time.
The Sport of Bowling
Step 1 Selecting and Gripping the Ball
Step 2 Establishing a Proper Stance
Step 3 Starting Fundamentals
Step 4 Finishing Fundamentals
Step 5 Refining the Swing
Step 6 Improving Footwork
Step 7 Coordinating the Approach
Step 8 Perfecting the Release
Step 9 Fine-Tuning Your Game
Step 10 Targeting Strikes
Step 11 Picking Up Spares
Step 12 Understanding Lane Conditions
Step 13 Competing in the Sport
Doug Wiedman is a lecturer in the department of health and kinesiology at Purdue University, West Lafayette, Indiana. Wiedman has been the department’s bowling instructor since 1993, where his courses have become among the largest college-based bowling instruction programs in the United States. In addition to his teaching duties, Wiedman has been the assistant coach for Purdue University’s nationally ranked intercollegiate bowling team since 2004. He also coached bowling at the high school level at Harrison High School, Lafayette, Indiana, from 2001 to 2009. Wiedman has twice been selected by Bowler’s Journal International as one of the nation’s top 100 bowling coaches. He started United States Bowling Congress (USBC) coaching certification courses in 1998, culminating in silver-level certification in 2005. Since then, through additional coaching and recertification activities, Wiedman has maintained his silver-level status. He was a member of the Purdue University men’s bowling team from 1984 to 1988.
“In Bowling: Steps to Success, Coach Doug Wiedman has provided an excellent foundation for those bowlers wishing to develop some sound fundamentals as they learn the game. Coach Wiedman pulls from his extensive background of coaching to offer tips and techniques that will help any bowler improve, whether a newcomer or someone who has enjoyed the game for a while and just wants to improve.”
Gary Sparks-- Head Bowling Coach Vincennes University, 12-Time National Junior College Athletic Association Champions,4-Time NJCAA Coach of the Year
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
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Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
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Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
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Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
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Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
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Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
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Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Timing on the approach
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball’s position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing.
Timing must be considered from both the beginning and end of the approach. The ball's position in the swing arc at the completion of the first step (or second step for those using a five-step approach) is termed initial timing. Terminal timing is determined by observing where the ball is in the swing arc as the last (slide) step begins. For experienced bowlers, we don't talk about good or bad timing. The nature of a bowler's timing is most frequently observed from the results (i.e., how the ball was delivered onto the lane). From there we work back, step by step, to the initial starting motion, to see how a bowler's style was established. Timing affects ball roll.
With early terminal timing, footwork is just barely finished as the swing gets to the release point. This may cause less finger leverage at the release. Less of the body's momentum transfers into the ball. Often the ball is placed onto the lane early. These are characteristics of the roller style of bowling (figure 3.1).
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Roller-style bowling: (a) initial timing, (b) swing arc, and (c) terminal timing.
Initial Shape of the Swing
The direction the ball moves during the swing is called the initial shape of the swing. Being able to make adjustments to the shape adds versatility to your game. A bowler can get the ball to the correct spot at the correct time even when adjusting ball speed or the tempo of the footwork. Bowlers also adjust the shape of the swing to fit their mental approach to the sport. Athletes frequently reflect their general personality traits in their style of game. Characteristics of their performance (speed, tempo, release) are the outward manifestation of their internal state of being. Whether aggressive or passive, methodical or freewheeling, bowlers can develop a suitable, individualized starting motion that matches their personality and keeps them in their mental comfort zone without sacrificing proper mechanics. The initial swing movement can take one of three basic shapes: the up-push, the swingaway, and the dropaway (figure 3.6).
As for mechanics, the up-push is used primarily for two reasons. One, it delays the swing's arc into the down-drop phase to accommodate slow initial steps. It is used by bowlers who prefer a slow, methodical start. Two, it generates extra swing momentum. Pushing the ball to a higher point gives it more potential energy. Starting the ball in a higher position in the stance serves the same purpose, but not all bowlers are comfortable with a high start position.
An additional aspect of the up-push technique is the sense of free fall it provides. The bowler gives the ball its slight upward push and then completely relaxes the shoulder. The ball then swings smoothly and effortlessly into the backswing. Pushing the ball up and letting it fall is a way to break the habit of trying to aim or guide the ball into the swing. To visualize this technique, imagine a bar in front of your chest. Start the pushaway by trying to move the ball over the imaginary bar. This "over the bar" technique has been popular with instructors for many years.
The swingaway is the traditional shape, the standard technique for starting the swing motion. All new bowlers should learn this starting motion first. The ball's movement is out and down. The out movement is caused by extending the upper arm away from the body, and the shoulder muscles are briefly engaged. At the same moment the arm is extending forward, the biceps relax, allowing the ball to swing down. This results in a smooth, arcing motion. There is no abrupt change in direction, no push-and-pull motion. Simply extend the arm far enough to move the ball past the foot, and gravity takes over from there. Imagine tracing a semicircle with the ball. The ball follows a curved path the entire time.
Many advanced bowlers prefer the dropaway technique. These bowlers use styles that feature high backswings and open shoulders at the top of the backswing. The swing path is much longer than in a traditional pendulum-type swing. This style of bowling requires getting the ball into the backswing quicker to allow time for the longer swing path. The ball moves into the down-drop phase almost immediately with little or no outward movement at the elbow. The upper-arm muscles relax and allow the ball to swing from the elbow. The elbow is a hinge joint, and the weight of the ball opens the hinge, and the arm extends into the down drop with no hesitation.
Figure 3.6 Shape of Swing
Up-Push
Ball moves up and out before it swings downward.
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Swingaway
Ball moves out and down into the swing. This is the standard shape.
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Dropaway
Ball hinges down from elbow with little forward movement.
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Ball Height in Stance
The height of the ball's position in the stance influences the choice of initial swing shape. No matter which style a bowler uses, all bowlers strive to get the ball to a position slightly forward of the throwing-side leg as the first step is complete.
If the ball is held high in the stance, it has farther to go to get to that position. There is no time to push the ball out or up. The hinge technique lets the ball fall into position quickly and is preferred by bowlers who start the ball higher.
If the ball is in a standard position, between chest high and waist high, the bowler has options. This is why a moderate starting height is suggested for most bowlers. A standard starting height allows room to move the pushaway in whichever direction best matches the swing shape to the athlete's natural tempo. The initial shape can be adjusted up, forward, or down to suit the bowler's style.
An aggressive, hard-charging bowler who uses a fast tempo might emphasize the down aspect of the shape. A slower, more relaxed or methodical bowler might prefer to emphasize the forward (or even a little bit of the up) motion of the start.
What about a lower starting position? A lower starting position is appropriate for bowlers who have very fast feet. These bowlers generate most of the ball velocity with their legs. This means they need less help from the swing. A low ball position, assuming there is no exaggerated up-push, creates a shorter swing arc. Some bowlers prefer the sense of control they get from a short, compact swing. Bowlers who lack the flexibility to swing the ball through a long arc might choose a lower starting point out of necessity.
Initial Movement Drill 1. Foot Placement
Using a guide can help you practice the appropriate crossover step. In this case, the guide is a small towel placed directly in front of the throwing-side foot. The distance from the foot to the towel is the same as the length of your first step. As the pushaway starts, step with the throwing-side foot to the inside of the towel. The foot will land to the left of the towel for a right-handed bowler.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Score a half-point bonus on each step and pushaway in which the pushaway moves at the correct time (15 points possible).
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 2. Partner Help
This drill has been an essential part of bowling instruction for a long time.
The bowler stands facing a partner who is far enough away that the bowler can fully extend the arm during the arm swing with the first step. The partner's hands are cupped to catch the ball and positioned in front of bowler's throwing-side shoulder and level with the bowler's waist. Bowler practices initial swing motion by extending ball into partner's hands. Bowler also takes initial step with pushaway practice. The entire weight of the ball rests in partner's hand so that the bowler's arm can relax. Bowler does not let go of ball to hand it to the partner. Grip on ball remains firm. (The arm relaxes, not the grip.)
To Decrease Difficulty.
Score Your Success
- Practice 10 step-and-pushaway motions.
- Score 1 point for each correct extension (firm grip, relaxed arm) that lands directly in your partner hands.
- Score a half-point bonus each time you use correct crossover step with pushaway.
- Your score ____
Initial Movement Drill 3. Weight Transition
I first heard of this drill from Fred Borden, internationally known instructor and former head coach of Team USA. It promotes full body-weight transition on the initial step and swing motion. This practice incorporates a small, almost imperceptible, back-and-forth hip slide. Gradually shifting the weight from back to front helps the bowler move the body forward as the ball is ready to move forward into the pushaway.
Assume a normal stance position with feet slightly staggered and knees slightly flexed. Hold ball at a comfortable height. Very gently shift weight onto back heel by sliding the hips back. Shift weight forward to the ball of front foot by sliding hips forward. Gently feel hips shift back and forth four times. On the fourth forward shift, allow body weight to continue past front foot. As weight shifts in front of feet, make initial step. (Once weight has moved in front of stance, you will feel the need to step. You should feel as though the step catches the body.) Practice proper pushaway movement when taking first step.
To Decrease Difficulty
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice full procedure 10 times.
- Score 1 point each time body-weight shift and ball-weight shift are simultaneous and smooth.
- Score half a point if step and swing motion are in correct direction.
- Your score ____
Variation of Weight-Transition Drill. Five-Step Approach
One of the benefits of the five-step approach is that the first step automatically leads to a weight transition. Instead of merely shifting onto the front foot, the bowler actually steps with that foot. The body weight gently moving forward with the first small step creates a seamless continuation of the weight shift onto the second step.
This weight transition includes the movement of the ball.
Assume a setup stance with the feet slightly staggered. Slide the hips back until the weight is over the heel of the back foot. Smoothly slide hips forward until the weight is past the toe of the back foot. Weight is now over front foot of staggered position. Slide the foot opposite the throwing arm forward. Body weight transfers forward to the opposite foot as the step is taken. As the body weight moves past the opposite foot, take a small step with the throwing-side foot. The ball moves forward into the pushaway just as the throwing-side foot moves for the second step. When the second step is firmly planted, the body weight is centered over the throwing-side foot.
Practice the weight transition with the first step 8 to 10 times before incorporating the second step and pushaway. Once comfortable with second step-and-pushaway motion, score success the same way as in the previous drill.
Success Summary
You should now have a clearer picture of how critical the start is to a sound game and how it contributes to developing versatility. While every athlete prefers a particular style of game, the more skillful bowlers make adjustments as needed.
A simple adjustment in the pushaway shape helps coordinate the swing with the footwork. An extended outward push delays the ball falling into the swing for bowlers with a slower start, while a quickly descending hinge motion accommodates faster foot speed or bowlers who prefer a higher backswing. The swingaway motion blends both the outward and downward aspects, creating a smooth, arcing initial movement. Many bowlers prefer the swingaway starting technique, and it is the best option for people new to the game.
The initial movement should be simple and easy to repeat. Find the rhythm and speed that falls into your comfort zone. Determine which shapes and speeds fit your game. Experiment with different ball positions and pushaway shapes. Then, practice enough to expand your mastery of various techniques. You are trying to hone a precise game. Be diligent in your efforts.
This chapter has introduced the elements of a proper start. At this point you should have a good idea of where to start, what a balanced stance feels like, and the proper way to get the ball in motion. These steps are only the start of the journey, but, there is no sense in getting started if you don't know where you are going. The finish position is where everything ends up. Every bowler must be aware of how to achieve a proper finish position. Bowlers must understand for themselves how the elements of swing alignment and body position established in the beginning apply to a balanced, well-aligned finish.
By rigorously working at developing a solid finish position, the bowler will be able to control how all the elements of power and accuracy come together at the end to produce an outstanding shot. Learning what goes into an excellent finish position is the topic of the next step.
Scoring Your Success
Timing Drill
- Evaluating Standard Initial Timing ____ out 9
Swing Drills
- Anatomical Swing Practice ____ out 5
- Opposite-Hand Pushaway Practice ___ out 5
Initial Movement Drills
- Foot Placement ____ out of 15
- Partner Help ____ out of 15
- Weight Transition ____ out of 15
Total ____ out of 64
A bowler must commit to either the four- or five-step approach before conducting the drills. If you choose the five-step approach, substitute the weight transition variation for your grading. Score yourself based on how many steps you have decided to use.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
Drills for developing your bowling swing
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
The following drills follow a particular order. Each successive drill adds more complexity. If you lose your awareness of a smooth, rhythmic swing as you work through the series of drills, you are not progressing properly.
Some of the drills in this text are based on the training regimen created by Dick Ritger. In the 1970s Mr. Ritger, an outstanding professional bowler, was one of the first to develop a complete training system for the sport of bowling. Although the modern bowler is more likely to open the body, drop the shoulders, and so on than those of Ritger's time, the essential aspects of his training regimen are fundamental to bowler training. As one acclaimed instructor noted, "I don't know where I would be without one- and two-step practice drills."
Learn the feel of a pendulum swing by recognizing the rhythm of the swing and the muscle-free motion. Although a gentle, continuous press against the back of the ball during the downswing creates acceleration, use the technique with caution. Avoid using a muscled swing.
Before starting these drills, be aware of a few guidelines:
- Get comfortable with a swing line next to your body.
- Look at where you want the swing to go instead of swinging to where you are looking.
- Because the ball is wider than the arm, positioning adjustments are essential to swing accuracy.
- The swing weight (ball weight accelerated by gravity) creates considerable force. Because the swing weight is on one side of the body, a correct finish position counteracts the swing weight.
- During the drills, do not try to throw harder. Try to be smoother. An increase in ball speed is a natural consequence of body momentum working with swing momentum.
Practice should closely reflect real game situations. Focus on a target for most of these drills. Identify the target at which you intend to roll the ball. Your first concern is not aiming, but rather relaxing and letting the swing take the ball down the lane.
Kneeling Swing Drill 1. Swing Isolation
This is an isolation drill. Once in the correct position for the kneeling drill, you will be able to concentrate on different parts of your game because it eliminates the extra body motion and footwork. This is one of the few times you can watch yourself swing and release the ball. For comfort, place padding under the knee.
Use only the swing to send the ball down the lane. The upper body tilts slightly forward. Avoid moving the shoulders side to side. Be steady. Do not sway back and forth with the swing.
Kneel in front of the foul line, with the throwing-side knee on the ground (figure 5.12). Center the foot opposite your throwing hand (what would be the slide foot) in front of the down knee. The toe of the slide foot is 2 to 3 inches (5-7.6 cm) from the foul line. Place nonthrowing hand on the knee of the front leg. Keep it there. Position the back knee behind the front foot to clear room for the swing line. For balance, bring the back foot (of kneeling leg) around. Grip the ball and raise the throwing shoulder, bringing the ball off the ground. Angle the body to an open position to help direct the swing toward the target. Slowly swing the ball back and forth, lengthening the swing each time. Feel a slight pulling motion on the way back and a completely relaxed swing on the way forward. Do not take more than three swings or you could lose your grip on the ball. Do not stop the swing. Say to yourself, "Back, relax. Back, relax. Back, release."
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Swing isolation drill.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Swing is a smooth pendulum motion = 2 points
- Swing line moves back and forth next to the hip = 2 points
- Force of swing does not pull bowler off balance = 2 points
- Non-throwing hand stays on knee = 1 point
- Ball does not hit floor during the swing = 2 points
- Ball is release out past the foul line in a smooth roll = 1 point
- Your score _____
Kneeling Swing Drill 2. Blind Bowling
Perform the kneeling swing drill with your eyes closed. Concentrate on the feel of the swing.
Score Your Success
- The ball feels heaviest at the bottom of the swing = 1 point
- The body position does not move = 1 point
- The ball comes off hand after lowest part of downswing = 2 points
- The swing feels smooth and relaxed = 2 points
- Your score ____
Kneeling Swing Drill 3. Partner Help
This drill teaches the feeling of a correct backswing. Some bowlers are so used to the ball swinging behind the back that a proper swing doesn't feel correct. This drill requires a practice partner.
Partner kneels directly behind bowler. From this position, partner can tell how accurate the swing is. Partner places hands behind bowler's swing shoulder. If swing gets off-line, partner stops swing by catching it with both hands (figure 5.13). If partner stops swing, allow partner to reposition the swing in line with the shoulder. (This helps bowler feel the difference between a good swing and a misaligned swing.) The partner lets go of the ball so that it will swing forward on a straight line.
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Partner catches the ball if the swing gets off-line.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Practice five sets of three swings. Score 1 point for each swing that touches partner's hand without needing to be repositioned.
- Your score ___
Kneeling Swing Drill 4. Swing Past Towel
While in the kneeling position, place a small towel next to the toe of the slide foot. The towel will be under the path the ball swings along. The end of the towel should extend 6 to 8 inches past where the slide-foot toe is placed. If the bowler is positioned very close to the foul line, the end of the towel will extend past the foul line by a couple of inches. With correct swing acceleration and release position, the ball will swing over the towel and land on the lane past the end of the towel.
If ball hits the towel, work on a longer swing or firmer hand position. Excessive shoulder drop may cause the ball to hit the lane early. If you have to, watch the ball swing through the release zone. The proper positioning and swing elements described for the basic kneeling drill should be emphasized.
Success Check
Score Your Success
- Roll the ball eight times. Score 1 point each time ball clears the towel and half a point for each roll that goes toward identified target.
- Your score ___
Swing Drill 1. Watching the Arm Swing
This is an opportunity to watch yourself swing the ball. Keep the swing straight. Imagine a line drawn from the shoulder to the target; the swing will follow through directly down that line. The inside edge of the elbow brushes the hip on the way by. Although this is a swing drill, it is also excellent for working on the release.
Score Your Success
- Your score____
Swing Drill 2. Partner-Guided Swing-Line Practice
This drill can be done from a kneeling position, upright in the proper finish position, or as part of a one-step practice. The practice partner is positioned on bowler's throwing side and guides the bowler's swing.
Partner grasps bowler's arm without interfering with the release. Partner grips forearm at the wrist, with thumb positioned under throwing hand (figure 5.14). Bowler swings ball three times and releases ball on third forward swing. Bowler executes five throws, and then switches roles with partner.
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Partner grips the forearm at the wrist to guide the swing.
Success Check
Score Your Success
Partner grades bowler's execution based on the following criteria:
- Take five practice throws, earning a maximum of 5 points per throw.
- Your score ___
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Hand positions for different releases
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing’s energy goes through the ball.
The position of the hand determines how the energy of the swing transfers through the ball. If the hand is directly behind the ball, all the swing's energy goes through the ball. Offsetting the hand will redirect some of the swing's energy around the ball, creating a torque motion. When this happens, two forces influence the ball's movement down the lane. Translational force is the initial direction of the ball down the lane. Rotational force is the direction of its rolling motion, or the orientation of its axis of rotation. The more a ball's axis of rotation is offset from its translational direction, the more potential hook it has.
Imagine rolling a tire instead of a ball. With the axle of the tire as the axis of rotation, the position and motion of the release become clearer. Using a clock face to picture the hand positions at the release point is a traditional method for describing the release.
There are two basic release positions, one for a straight ball and one for a hook ball. Generally, the straight release is passive; the hand and forearm do not move at the release point. An active release is characterized by movement at the release point; in other words, the bowler changes the position of the hand as the swing passes through the release phases. The action of this release is meant to increase either the number of revolutions or the degree of side roll. Both passive and active releases can create a hook.
A bowler can release the ball in a variety of ways. To make understanding them easier, we will separate them into general categories: straight, passive hook, active hook, and the (undesirable, yet all-too-common) backup ball.
Straight Release Hand Position
The goal of a straight ball release is to create a heavy end-over-end ball roll, which emphasizes accuracy. For a passive straight release, the ball is set in the desired release position at the beginning of the stance and remains there throughout the swing.
In the straight release, the fingers are aligned in a 12:00 and 6:00 hand position (figure 8.7). The thumb and fingers line up directly behind the ball. This position produces little side roll. The direction of ball rotation is the same (or almost the same) as the direction it is thrown.
Figure 8.7 Straight Release
Hand Position
- Thumb and gripping fingers are in line directly behind the ball.
- Forearm rotates slightly, enough to line up thumb and fingers with center of forearm.
- Wrist position is straight or slightly extended back. (No cupping is needed.)
- For some bowlers, the wrist may break back somewhat when they align the hand position with the forearm; this is acceptable.
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Release
- Near the bottom of the swing, the ball starts to drop off the thumb.
- Ball rolls forward onto the fingers.
- As swing extends, ball rolls off the front of finger pads and smoothly onto lane.
- Fingers apply pressure directly up the back of ball.
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Hook Release
The hook can be accomplished with both an active and a passive release. To create an effective hook, the fingers need to be under the ball and slightly offset from the ball's center. The swing drives the hand through, then up, the side of the ball. The hand does not turn around the ball so much as the ball is turned by the hand. Excessive motion is not necessary for creating an effective hook.
In the basic hook release, the fingers are at a 10:00 and 4:00 hand position at the point of release. The important issue is the ball clearing the thumb. The ball slides off the thumb before the swing reaches the release position.
A passive hook release involves presetting the hand position for the hook at the beginning of the swing and keeping it there throughout the swing (figure 8.9). This is the easiest hook release to learn. There is little or no motion at the release. The hand position is set at the beginning, and the bowler merely swings through the position.
Just like before, let the hand hang relaxed at the side. Imagine where the hand needs to be in order to be offset from the center of the ball. Offsetting the hand requires a small rotation of the forearm. The wrist does not change position; it is firm and straight (or perhaps slightly cupped). Imagine looking down the hand toward a clock face lying on the floor. Rotate your forearm until the thumb points toward 10:00 and the fingers are at 4:00. This is the hook release position (figure 8.10). Bend your arm, bringing the hand straight up (keeping it in line with the shoulder); this is the starting position.
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Hook release setup: Rotate forearm so fingers point inward and thumb is positioned by the outside of the ball.
When it is time to release the ball, it will slide off the thumb smoothly because it is facing slightly down and in toward the ankle at the bottom of the swing, and the fingers swing up the side of the ball. As you drive through the release, be sure the swing stays on line to the target and the fingers remain firm in the ball.
In an active hook release, the thumb may point toward 1:00 or 2:00 when the ball clears the thumb. This puts the fingers in a 7:00 and 8:00 position. By cocking the wrist position, as mentioned earlier, the fingers can be offset to the inside of the centerline. As the swing continues and the weight of the ball transfers to the fingers, the turn of the forearm rotates the fingers to 4:00. (They should never rotate past 3:00.) The more the hand rotates around the ball before applying its leverage force, the more axis rotation can be created.
This is the point at which some high-revolution players will allow the wrist to collapse slightly. As described in the modern release section, slightly breaking back the wrist tilts the ball weight onto the finger just before the forearm rotation applies the leverage force of the fingers. For a powerful release, the wrist uncups, uncocks, and rotates slightly.
As the uncocking motion and the forearm rotation turn the thumb inward, the finger will follow in the same direction. Some players try to get the finger to chase the thumb around and up the ball. Bowlers capable of this very strong snap - flip hand action may find that the momentum of the release causes the follow-through to move in front of their face. This is acceptable because the ball was released at the bottom of the swing, when the swing was still on line to the target. The change in the swing line is a consequence of the release forces influencing the follow-through direction after the ball is off the hand.
Rotating the hand to an exaggerated open position provides maximum rotation at the release. Imagine leading with your pinkie in the downswing, then turning from under the ball with the other fingers at the release. Some bowlers try to get into the overrotated position during the stance or very early in the pushaway.
Players who use the overrotated hand position in the setup of the stance should be careful to keep the swing from going where the thumb goes. A thumb pointing outward may cause an outward pushaway. If the pushaway moves away from the body, the backswing ends up behind the bowler. Many wannabe power players give up too much accuracy in order to create a strong release. If overrotating the hand position in the stance, be attentive to the direction of the pushaway. Make sure the throwing-arm elbow swings right next to the throwing-side leg.
Figure 8.9 Passive Hook Release
Hand Position
- Hand is directly under the ball in the setup position.
- In the stance position, rotate forearm until palm is facing slightly inward, about a one-eighth turn to the outside of the ball.
- Palm is not turned completely inward (facing the body), nor does it face the ceiling.
- Hand position is maintained throughout the swing.
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Release
- The ball slides off the thumb near the bottom of the swing.
- As the ball passes the drive face of the swing, the fingers maintain their offset position on the ball.
- As the ball rotates to the inside of the hand, the swing continues toward the target.
- Imagine the fingers moving in a straight line through the ball; if the fingers are in an offset position, the ball will have side roll.
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Bowling's primary and secondary targets
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
The two primary target points on the lane are the starting position on the approach and the target arrows on the lanes (figure 10.1). These two points define the target line to the pins.
When setting up on the approach, pay attention to the location of your throwing-side shoulder. The ball swings from the shoulder, so aim from the shoulder. The position of the shoulder relative to the position of the visual target determines both the nature of the stance (open or closed) and the direction of the footwork. In many situations, you do not walk straight down the lane; instead, you walk toward the target.
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Target points.
Three sets of dots, usually five or seven dots per set, are evenly spaced across the approach directly in line with the arrows on the lane. One set of dots is 15 feet (4.6 m) from the foul line, another is 12 feet (3.6 m), and the last set of dots is at the end of the approach an inch or two (2.5-5 cm) in front of the foul line.
A line drawn from the dot that the throwing shoulder is positioned over to the arrow identified as the preferred target creates a path on the lane. The direction of this path influences the direction of the footwork. By comparing the starting dot with the dot finished over, you can determine whether or not you walked along the intended path.
Primary Points of the Target Line
The two primary points of the target line are the bowler's starting position on the approach and the visual target on the lane. The arrows, about 15 feet (4.6 m) out on the lanes, are the preferred visual targets for most bowlers. Some bowlers may choose a point between two arrows. In either case, the visual point is closer to the foul line than to the pins.
The pins are not the primary visual target. Learn to be a spot or line bowler, rather than a pin bowler. Pick a spot that is close; it is easier to focus on it and precisely identify the size of an error. Although some bowlers use more than the arrows, the arrows are the obvious targets to start with. Most skilled bowlers do not look at the pins until the ball hits them. If the starting position is correct and the ball rolls over the intended target, the ball's path will be fairly predictable whether the pins are 60 feet (18 m) away or 600.
Why look at the pins at all? Because the pins are a secondary target. Where the ball makes contact and how the pins fall (or don't fall) are clues to how effective the shot was. Always learn from each shot.
Secondary Points of the Target Line
The secondary points of the target line are the finishing point of the approach and the ball's contact point at the pins.
Compare the finishing point on the approach with both the starting point and the visual target on the lane. This indicates whether the footwork was straight toward the target. If the approach is not straight, one of two things happens. Either the bowler will be unable to hit the desired target, or the target will be hit from a different angle than was originally intended. In either case, the ball path will not follow the desired target line.
Develop the habit of looking down at the slide foot after each shot. The final position of the footwork will tell you whether you walked in the intended direction. Frequently, the finish position should split the difference between the start position and the visual target. For instance, if the visual target is 4 inches (10 cm) to the right of the starting position, expect the finishing point on the approach to be 2 inches (5 cm) to the right of the original starting point.
Where the ball contacts the pins is the final point of the target line. Verification of your choice of target line comes from hitting the desired strike pocket. If the ball does not end up where it was supposed to, you need to determine the problem. Either poor technique or an incorrect strategy is to be blamed. Perhaps the ball was rolled improperly or the choice of starting position and target was incorrect.
As your physical performance becomes more consistent, you can begin to eliminate physical factors as a cause for poor results. To be more precise, sensitivity to your physical game will allow you to determine more readily what caused an errant shot. Once you are satisfied that a physical problem is not to blame, you can concentrate your efforts on adjusting targeting strategies.
Using Strike Adjustment Systems
The two basic strike adjustment strategies (3-1-2 pivot and 3-4-5 angle shift) rely on the relationships between three reference points - the pins, the arrows, and the starting position on the approach. A third system (the 1-to-2 system) is a variation of the angle-shift system.
The numerical aspect of these systems is based on a relationship of on-lane distances. A bowling lane can be broken down into 15-foot (4.6 m) increments. The 15-foot increments are the distances to the three points that define a ball's target line: the starting position, the visual target at the arrows, and the ball's contact point at the pins. The ratio of these distances from a fixed point is how the numbers are determined. Adjustments are a matter of bowling math.
3-1-2 Pivot System
With this system, the visual target at the arrows does not change as adjustments are made. The target at the arrows becomes a pivot around which the strike line moves (figure 10.2). When using the pivot system, the bowler needs to determine two things before making an adjustment for an errant strike shot. One, what was the direction of the mistake; did the ball go to the left or to the right of the intended strike pocket? Two, by how much did the ball miss the strike? It is usually easy to see where the ball went, but figuring out exactly how far it missed by takes careful observation (and a little bit of calculation).
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3-1-2 pivot system.
Adjusting Direction
Consider a seesaw - as one end goes down, the other end goes up. Now, lay the seesaw on its side. As one end moves right, the other end moves left. This is how the pivot system works. One end of the seesaw is the starting position. The other end is the ball's contact point at the pins. As the starting position moves right, the ball's location at the pins moves left, and vice versa.
This gives us the most basic adjustment strategy in the game: move in the direction of the mistake. Mistake means where the ball ended up at the pins. Move means the lateral change of the starting position on the approach.
When missing right, move right. If missing left, move left.
It is 45 feet (13.7 m) (three sets of 15 feet [4.6 m]) from the arrows to the pins and 30 feet (9 m) (two sets of 15 feet) from the arrows to the starting position. This 3-to-2 ratio allows you to change where the ball ends up by making careful changes in the starting position on the lane.
Let's say you move two boards to the right from your initial starting position. (Make sure to turn the body enough to face the original target). If you walk to that target, the approach will end up one board to the right of the original path. (This is the 1 in the 3-1-2 system.) The ball will end up three boards left of the original contact point at the pins.
Adjustments are made as multiples of the basic 3:2 ratio: 6:4, 9:6, and so on.
Keep in mind that the basic adjustment strategies are based on straight lines. If you throw a hook, the numerical relationship of these strategies might change.
When using the 3-1-2 system, be aware of a few things. When making very large movements without moving, be sure to realign the body. The realignment may only be a matter of turning the feet in the stance or perhaps changing the amount of foot stagger. These adjustments were described in step 9.
In general, expect to home in on the strike pocket by the second adjustment when using the 3-1-2 system. If the second adjustment of the starting position still does not get the ball near the strike target, it is likely you are missing the intended target. No targeting system will work if you can't hit the target.
Determining the Size of the Miss
As mentioned before, knowing the direction of the miss is only one part of the strategy. You also need to determine the size of the miss. If you don't know how much you missed by, you won't know how much to move. Your goal is to remove the guesswork from your adjustments. Determining the amount of the miss is a matter of careful observation. Watch where the ball makes contact at the pins. Compare that to the position of the strike pocket. If you can accurately determine the difference between the two, you will be able to make an exact, immediate change in the stance position as a correction to the errant throw. So what you must learn is how to estimate the distance from the strike pocket to any other contact point on the pin triangle.
Strike Pocket
Going down the side of the pin triangle, it is 6 inches (15 cm) from the center of one pin to the center of another. Bowlers need to determine whether the center of the ball made contact directly on one pin or another, or somewhere in between. The space between two pins is called the pocket. For strike adjustments, the main concern is the strike pocket - the pocket on either side of the head pin (figure 10.3). A pocket cuts the 6-inch (15 cm) space in half. That means as the ball location moves from pocket to pin or from pin to pocket, it is changing 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time.
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It is 3 inches from the strike pocket to the center of the pins on either side of the pocket.
Simply compare where the ball made contact with where the desired strike pocket is. Estimate errors in multiples of 3 inches (7.6 cm). This works very well with the 3-1-2 adjustment system (see figure 10.2). That system allows for 3-inch changes in ball location based on 2-inch (5 cm) adjustments with the feet. The technique for estimating the size of the error coincides nicely with the system for adjusting ball location.
The pivot system is easy to use and easy to remember. But it does have limitations. One of them is limiting the angle to the pocket. For bowlers who throw the ball on a straight path, only one line will go over any given target and still hit the strike pocket. If you find that line and still don't strike, you want to throw a more effective shot, but you can't use the pivot system anymore. The pivot system changes the ball location. If you are hitting the right location and still not striking, you need to find a different strategy. You may ask, "If there is one perfect line to the strike pocket for any target and if I roll the ball on that line exactly, shouldn't I strike every time?" In theory, the answer is yes. The problem is with us, the bowlers: we are not perfect.
After hitting what looks like the strike pocket and not getting a strike, congratulate yourself on a good throw. Remember that nobody strikes all the time. You may have missed the true strike pocket, but it was by only a small margin. For instance, leaving a 10 pin on a pocket hit usually indicates a miss of about half of an inch (1.25 cm). A 5 pin indicates a miss of only about an inch (2.5 cm). One pin standing is what happens when the ball is thrown well, just not well enough to strike.
If you remember the strike-percentage chart (found in step 8), the larger the attack angle into the pocket, the larger the strike pocket becomes. We all need a larger strike pocket. Nobody hits the perfect spot all the time. We have to give ourselves a chance to miss a little left or right and still strike at a respectable percentage.
If hitting what looks like the strike pocket, a radical change in ball location is not required. The 3-1-2 pivot adjustment changes the ball's final location. If the location looks very close and yet you are not striking, another strategy may be necessary. You could apply the pivot system. There is a good chance that you are not hitting the precise strike area for the target you are using. If you still want to keep that target, adjustments in the starting position need to be precise, perhaps only fractions of an inch. Small misses require small adjustments.
But another system is available. One in which the attack angle into the pocket can be changed without changing the location of the ball impact at the pins. Remember, for an effective strike ball, a bowler needs accuracy, angle, and drive. If the accuracy looks pretty good and you feel as though the ball was released with an effective roll, you need to adjust the other factor.
3-4-5 Angle-Shift System
Figure 10.4 illustrates the 3-4-5 angle-shift system in which the entry angle changes without changing the ball's contact point. When the shots are hitting the strike pocket, only subtle changes in the ball path are needed. You can make very small adjustments of the ball angle into the pocket by moving the starting position and the visual target in the same direction. Moving closer to the middle of the lane reduces the angle. Moving closer to the gutter increases the angle.
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3-4-5 angle-shift system.
It is 45 feet (114 m) from the pins to the target arrows (three increments of 15 feet [4.6 m]), 60 feet (18 m) from the pins to the foul line (four increments of 15 feet), and 75 feet (22.8 m) from the pins to the starting position at the back of the approach (five increments of 15 feet). Be precise! Move the target 3 inches (7.6 cm) at a time with every 5-inch (12.7 cm) change in the starting position. (The approach will finish 4 inches [10 cm] from the original strike line.) An adjustment in anything other than a 3-to-5 ratio changes the ball's final position.
The 3-4-5 angle shift system works in any multiple. Instead of standing near the middle of the lane and using a target near the middle of the lane, try moving 10 inches (25.4 cm) with the feet and 6 inches (1.8 cm) with the eyes. For even more angle, try moving 15 inches (38 cm) at the start and 9 inches (22.8 cm) at the arrows.
Maximizing the Attack Angle With a Straight Ball
Because a straight ball does not change direction from its initial ball path, the only way you can create a stronger attack angle into the strike pocket is through a position change on the lane. You can use the 3-4-5 system to find a line to the pocket knowing only the location of the strike pocket. You do this by working back from the strike pocket. Multiples of the 3-4-5 ratio get us to the correct visual target, the release point, and the starting position on the lane.
Numerically, the perfect strike pocket is 2.5 inches (6.3 cm) offset from the center. The center of the lane is the middle of the 20th board. Boards are counted from the edge of the gutter (the 1 board) to the center. Because the lane boards are slightly more than 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide, 2.5 inches from the middle of the head pin puts the strike pocket at about the 18th board. Now, by applying the 3-4-5 angle shift strategy (with the 18th board at the pocket as the starting point), you can determine the line to the strike pocket that gives the maximum angle for a straight ball.
The idea is for every 15 feet (4.6 m) you move back from the contact point at the pins, move the line over a specific distance. How far should the line move for each 15-foot increment? You could adjust the line two boards laterally for every 15 feet away from the strike pocket, but the angle into the pocket would be fairly shallow. You could adjust the line four boards for every 15 feet (to create a stronger attack angle), but by the time the line was brought back to the beginning of the approach, the bowler would be out of room; your stance might end up on top of the ball return. (Plus, 18 does not divide by 4 easily.)
So, let's use an increment of a three-board deviation for every 15-foot increment the target line is away from the pins.
- With the strike pocket (60 feet [18 m] from the foul line) on the 18th board, the ball will be on the 15th board at 45 feet (114 m) down the lane. (One set of 15 feet [4.6 m] away from the pins.)
- At 30 feet (9.1 m) down lane (or two sets of 15 feet from the pins), the ball is on the 12th board.
- When 15 feet down the lane, which is at the arrow, (three sets of 15 feet from the pins) the ball is rolling over the 9th board.
Here is where you can see how the 3-4-5 angle adjustment system starts to apply!
- The arrows are three sets of 15 feet (45 feet) away from the pins: 3 × 3 boards = 9 boards; 18 (strike pocket) - 9 (board shift) = 9. The visual target is the 9 board.
- The foul line is four sets of 15 feet (60 feet) away from the pins: 4 × 3 boards = 12; 18 (strike pocket) - 12 (board shift) = 6. The release point at the foul line is the 6 board. This means the swing passes over the 6th board as the ball is released.
- The starting position on the approach is five sets of 15 feet (75 feet) away from the pins: 5 × 3 = 15; 18 - 15 = 3. The starting position on the approach puts the swing, or throwing-side shoulder, over the 3 board.
To sum it up: position yourself to start the swing on the 3rd board. Walk in a direction that allows the swing to pass over the 6th board. Maintain a finish position and swing line that rolls the ball over the 9th board. A ball rolling on a straight path ends up at the 18th-board strike pocket.
The 1-to-2 adjustment is a variation of the 3-4-5 system (figure 10.5). For every two boards the starting position is moved, the visual target changes one board in the same direction. The 1-to-2 is a common adjustment for more-experienced bowlers. (Most bowlers refer to the adjustment as the 2 and 1 because they think about the starting position first.)
The adjustment is almost like cutting the 3-to-5 ratio in half. By ignoring the half board, (who wants to think about 1.5 and 2.5?) you get a 1-to-2 adjustment.
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1-to-2 adjustment.
Although the 1-to-2 system may not seem to be mathematically exact, it is easy to remember and has practical application. Because it is not in exactly a 3-to-5 ratio, applying the 1-to-2 adjustment does change the ball's final location at the pins. Also, because the feet adjust in a larger increment than the target's adjustment, there is a subtle change in angle.
A simple example: A right-handed bowler's ball hooks too much and hits high on the headpin. The bowler does not want the ball to hit the same spot again. (Remember, any adjustment in a 3-to-5 ratio changes the angle but not the location.) The ball missed the pocket to the left, so the bowler moves left. Consequently, the ball ends up slightly farther right. (A high hit is a miss to the left of the strike pocket for a right-handed bowler. So, miss left, move left.) Additionally, moving the starting position and the target in the same direction (in this case to the left) causes a subtle angle change.
The bowler accomplishes two things when applying the 1-to-2 system. First, he or she changes the ball's final position at the pins using the 1-to-2 ratio in the same way as the basic 3-1-2 adjustment. This is possible because the 1-to-2 system is not an exact equivalent of the 3-to-5 system.
Second, the bowler has made a practical adjustment that allows for a simple angle adjustment in the same manner the 3-4-5 system would. By moving the target as well as the starting position, the ball now rolls along a different part of the lane. This differs from the pivot system, which keeps the target the same. The 1-to-2 system is blend of both of the basic systems. It creates slight changes in the ball's contact at the pins for better strike-pocket location as well as slight changes in angle to adjust how the ball drives into the strike pockets.
The 1-to-2 system allows greater fine-tuning of location than the basic 3-1-2 system.
The 1-to-2 system works well for bowlers throwing a hook. One of the topics discussed in step 12 (about lane conditions) is how the ball removes lane oil. Bowling on the same part of the lane, throw after throw, wears down the oil in that particular area. A ball's hook gets larger as oil on a section of the lane is used up. At some point, changes in lane conditions will become dramatic enough to force the bowler to play another part of the lane. Each time the bowler moves both the stance and the feet in the same direction (like the 1-to-2 system calls for), the ball path moves to a different, fresher part of the lane. The new oil line helps the ball travel down the lane more easily, reducing hook and allowing you to regain control of the ball motion.
The 1-to-2 adjustment also works going the other way. Oil pushed down the lane from ball movement (called carrydown) prevents the ball from hooking in time to get back to the strike pocket. Most bowling centers have less oil near the edges of the lanes than they do in the middle. Moving the feet and the target closer to the edge of the lane allows for both an increase in angle and a ball path that is on a drier (and therefore more hooking) part of the lane. Both benefits are useful if the bowler is looking for a stronger angle to the pocket. Because it is easy to remember and has practical application for the way lane conditions change under normal circumstances, experienced bowlers use the 1-to-2 system most often.
Straight bowlers play angles. But, hook bowlers must play the conditions as well.
Special Note for Hook Throwers
All of the diagrams in this step illustrate straight lines to the pocket. The basic adjustment strategies are more easily understood using straight lines. If you throw a hook, these adjustment strategies probably will not work exactly by the numbers as described.
This does not mean the strategies introduced have no place in a hook thrower's game. The direction of the moves either to change location (pivot around a target) or angle (adjusting target and stance at the same time) does apply, just the numbers related to the adjustments are different. The general concept still applies, but the numerical relationship will vary from bowler to bowler.
The more a ball hooks, the more the lane conditions must be taken into account. Pivoting around a target to change the ball's location and moving both target and starting position to create different launch angles are critical adjustment skills.
Learn more about Bowling: Steps to Success, Second Edition.
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